Ryuchiro Yakitori (隆次郎燒鳥): binchotan skewers in a Ximen alley, one stop from Taipei Main Station

Ryuchiro is at No. 25, Lane 25, Kangding Rd. in Wanhua, tucked into an alley in the Ximen area. From Taipei Main Station, take the Bannan (blue) line one stop to Ximen and walk about 10 minutes from Exit 6.

The shop is small: a counter and a few four-seat tables, full at about twenty people. It is often booked up, so call ahead to reserve. It is closed on Mondays and takes cash only. The minimum spend is NT$800 per person, plus a 10% service charge.

The owner, A-Long, trained in Japan and holds a Japanese cooking license. He grills over binchotan charcoal with no grate, and does nearly everything himself, from the grill to the table.

Sit at the counter to watch him work. Each skewer comes out as soon as it is done. Eat it while it is hot.

Chicken thigh with scallion (negima) is the yakitori basic: juicy thigh meat between pieces of charred scallion. Liver comes two ways, with sauce or with salt. I prefer salt: just coarse salt, and it comes out rich and smooth.

If you like offal, don't skip these. The liver is lightly charred outside and still soft inside. Shirako here means rooster testicles; grilled, they turn rich and creamy, and not every yakitori shop has them.

The white liver (雞白肝) is limited. Ask the owner if there is any that day.

Chochin (提燈, "lantern") are unlaid egg yolks grilled together with the oviduct in a sweet-salty sauce. The yolks burst in your mouth. They aren't on every day, so order them when you see them.

The fried chicken is popular too: crisp outside, great with a beer.

Ryuchiro is one MRT stop from Taipei Main Station, an easy place for skewers and a drink after work. Our monthly rooms near the station are in elevator buildings with building staff. Stays start at 30 days, the rooms come furnished, and you can move in with just a suitcase.